Weekend In Kilkenny (21/1/11-23/1/11)

So this post is a little...or a lot on the late side.  My sincerest apologies to the thousands of doting fans, eagerly awaiting my next post...you're out there somewhere

...anyway

A modest view of the City from outside Kilkenny Castle

This weekend was great craic (fun) as the Irish say.  We left friday afternoon to catch the train from the Heuston train station on the western side of dublin, right near Phoenix Park, one of the largest public parks in Europe.  The train was great.  Compared to my limited experiences with the MBTA commuter rail, Metro North and the LIRR, the Iarnród Éireann (Irish Rail) was first class.  It took a little less than two hours, and getting off the train I felt like I was getting off the Hogwarts Express.  It was misty foggy...We couldn't see more than 100 yards ahead of us.

Kilkenny Train Station

I liked it though.  It gave the town more of a mistique as we walked through.  As we walked down the narrow, dimly lit streets, the red lights from the passing traffic and other colored lights from adjacent stores and pubs filtered through the fog, making the entire street glow in an almost indescribable way.  This picture in front of Biddy Early's may do it justice.

On the way to the hostel

The Fog and the corner of Kilkenny Castle as we crossed the bridge into town

After we settled in at our hostel, we went out to explore a little and get some dinner.  We found our way over the Matt the Miller's, right on the river across from Kilkenny Castle.  I demolished a rack of ribs with a Smithwicks (Smithwicks Brewery is in Kilkenny, pronounced "Smit-icks" by the Irish).  We then went around the city more, wandering in and out of pubs here and there.  The first one we walked into, recommended by our waiter, Tynan's, was a really nice, traditional, small pub, filled with an older, local crowd.  We walked in, tried to find a seat (which we failed at), and ended up awkwardly walking in and turning around and filing out, followed all the while by every set of eyes in the place.  We ended up at Lanagan's pub, where we had a pint and watched some traditional Irish music.  As we sat there, a ton of local lads poured into the place, ready to drink on a friday night.  Not long thereafter a womens' rugby club team came in, all dressed with shirts spotted like cows...apparently one of them was getting married, and were celebrating with a night on the town.

St. Canice's Cathedral & Round Tower

Inside St. Canice's

The next morning we went to the store, got some food to cook at the hostel, and headed out into Kilkenny to see the sights.  We started with the St. Canice Cathedral (see picture below).  Walking around it, looking at the graves, and seeing inside overall was kind of mind blowing- just thinking about how long the US has been in existence vs. how long the Cathedral I was in has been in existence (it was built in the 13th century).  Next to it stands a Round Tower from the 9th century.  It was used as a lookout tower for Vikings who would raid during certain times of the year, and also held extra grain.  Unfortunately it was too foggy to see anything from the top of it...another time if we go by Kilkenny again this semester.  We found our way to the Smithwicks Brewery next.  Unfortunately they don't brew on Saturdays, so it was pretty quiet (empty actually) at the brewery.  We saw the remains of where it all started, the St. Francis Abbey.  It's the oldest brewery in Ireland, started in 1710 (beat you to it Arthur Guinness).  It's a new top favorite of mine after the weekend there.

St. Francis Abbey and sweet reflective pinneys
they had us wear during the tour

So after walking through the entire city that day, we went to the store to get supplies for dinner: Taco Night!  Delicious southwest fare, homemade in the hostel, complete with the ambiance of the Buena Vista Social Club Soundtrack and a couple bottles of wine.

Brian, Micaela, Michaela and James.  Dinner in the hostel before going out

That night we moved around to a few different pubs again, including a place called Left Bank and Kyteller's Inn, named after a lady who would marry and subsequently poison her husband before taking his money...sounds like a real keeper.

The next day we packed up and went up to see Kilkenny Castle before we took the train home.

Highlights:  

1.  A weird contemporary art exhibition that consisted of local limestones and marbles...way too existential for me.

2.  Our tourguide was one of the most eloquent tour guides I've ever had and very particular on the behavior of his audience.  He gave prolonged glares of disapproval to crying babies and whispering couples, which made the tour that much better and somewhat comical.

On the green outside Kilkenny Castle

We took the train back that afternoon.  Sitting a few rows in front of us on the ride back were a group of about 7 middle-aged women who I assumed were sisters or related somehow.  They were jabbering back and forth very loudly, and occasionally bursting out in high pitch laughter, having the best time in the world.  It reminded me in a way of my grandmother and her sisters, who would always be together chatting in the living room of my grandmother's house in Flushing at Thanksgiving or Easter or any family holiday.  It was really funny and refreshing in a way...imagining my grandma and her sisters sitting together talking at an earlier stage in their life than I knew them.

So all in all, a good weekend.  It was really nice to see a more traditional Irish city.  Dublin is great, but very international and not as traditionally irish as some of the other major cities.  I'm looking forward to getting over to the West of Ireland and getting into communities where Irish is still spoken regularly.

Rain, or something like it...

It's funny, every morning I wake up and look out the window onto the road and grass outside.  I can't see the sky yet, but as I look out it seems as if it has just rained...except it's like that all the time.  Luckily, it hasn't been too blustery, not too many downpours, but the grass and pavement are always wet, or look as if it just stopped raining.  It's nice in a way.  Everything stays looking fresh and clean.  There aren't any leaves on the trees, but the grass is perfect always.  There's no salt or sand built up on the side of the road or sidewalk that somehow finds its way into every corner of your house, including your bed sheets, and every once in a while, in your soup.  It is muddy, I'll say that.  I've learned to tread on grass as if it were ice.  That mud can send you flying, and unlike ice, leaves you both embarrassed and completely filthy.  It hasn't happened to me yet, but I'm sure it will eventually on a run in the future.

Leinster Rugby

So the actual date of events vs the date that this was posted are off by a bit, but I'm going to explain the photos as if they just happened...


Brian and I went to see a Leinster Rugby Match in Dublin just the other day.  Brian's cousin is married to one of the starters on the team, Mike Ross.  We didn't really know until we got to the game and talked to people at UCD how big a deal that actually was.  He's basically the Richard Seymour of the team.


I must say, after watching the match, and as someone who appreciates endurance sports, I appreciate rugby players much more than football players.  Not only do they not wear pads, and get hit just as hard, but they then have to get up and continually run for 40 minute halves.  


The energy was unbelievable...and when Molly Malone (that's a song by the Dubliners adopted by Leinster sort of like Tessie at Fenway) started playing, everyone went nuts.  It was cold and windy, but a great game to watch.  I'm definitely going to watch more of it now that I've gotten a chance to see it played at a high level.


After the match (which was a blowout, something like 47-15) we got a chance to go to a clubhouse with the players and their families for a pint.  It was really interesting to talk to Mike about his experiences playing rugby and see some of the other guys on the team (these dudes were huge. some tall, but all of them just jacked out of their minds).  I'm hoping we'll be able to go back and see another match at least once before the end of the semester.

Mike is #3, right next to 5

The Road to the Perfect Pint

Everyone who I've talked to that's been to Dublin has told me that the Guiness is on a whole other level compared to the beer that they export.  And it's true, beyond belief.  It's also less expensive than many other beers in Dublin, so hey. I'll take one.

A picture is worth a thousand words, so instead of blabbering, I'll let you see for yourself.

Where the magic happens.  The entire Guiness brewery takes up a number of city blocks.  The tour itself no longer goes through the actual brewery, but through a separate building.

From Right-left: Myself, Brian, Michaela and Micaela from HC, Norah from Columbia

Advertisements of the past, some maybe not as "PC" as others

View from the Gravity Bar at the top of the building.  360 degree view of the Storehouse and the rest of Dublin.

The Perfect Pint.  Perfect

Finally Here!

The advice that I got for my actual flight over to Ireland was to make sure that I slept on the plane to reduce the effects of jet lag.  But who could actually sleep on a flight when it's your first time going to another country (Canada doesn't count), and there are countless movies at your fingertips, on a screen less than 2 feet away from your face?  I know I'm not the only one who would choose "The Social Network" and "The Dark Knight" over 7 hours of sleep.


So after 13 hours of flight time, I finally made it.  And although my accommodations were not really quite as nice as advertised online, I've just about settled in.  Apparently they don't heat their apartments during the break.  The first night of sleep included basically all the warm clothes I owned..  Grocery shopping is an ever-evolving art, as is my cooking.  I've got breakfast down I think, and lunch is pretty easy but if anyone has any student-friendly dinner recipes, I'll forever be grateful!  


There is not a whole lot of culture shock to overcome in my opinion.  The language is the same (the slang is a different story, although not too difficult), the people are more welcoming and open than the typical New Englander, which makes asking questions and getting around a little bit easier.  The whole "driving on the left side of the road" thing is still a little bizarre.  One thing that I've noticed about the whole of ireland so far:  Everything is smaller.  The houses are low-profile, the supermarket food portions are much less (no King-size or family size), the cars are smaller, and the ceilings even seem to be lower.


But the bus routes are getting more familiar, Dublin is not as much of a maze anymore, and the 4 of us here from Holy Cross and some other american students are planning our first trip to Kilkenny this weekend.  Let the traveling begin!


Classes just started today. 150+ student lecture halls are so alien.  I don't feel like I'm in class, I feel like I'm in an orientation seminar.  Again, more to get used to.

Bedroom

This kitchen is b**chin

the living room. kitchen behind me

I'm outta here

With one day left, bags are packed, passports and plane tickets in hand, irish music downloaded, and I have one movie line stuck in my head: George Bailey in it's a wonderful life:  "Mary I know what I'm going to do tomorrow and the next day and the next year and the year after that. I'm shaking the dust of this crummy little town off my feet and I'm going to see the world."